Alaska Cruise - Part 2
Inside Passage
by Tom Mugridge

Our second day out was spent plying the southern waters of the Inside Passage toward our first port of call, Ketchikan.

This was a good day just to camp out on deck, relax, and watch the silent, serene beauty slide by. We also kept an eye out for wildlife, and at dinnertime we were rewarded with dozens of sea lions sunning themselves on the rocky shore.

We were traveling in early May, and the long hours of light urged me to stay on deck until very late. It seemed wrong to go sleep while it was still light out, and I didn't want to miss a minute.

Since it got light again by 4:30 a.m., I usually arose by 5:30 to begin my sightseeing anew. Tired, but anew. I figured I can sleep later, but I can't see Alaska later.

As a gift, our travel agent had arranged for us to receive a "cruise companion" book that served as an excellent guide to particular points of interest and the names of places along the way. Written by a gentleman who had sailed these waters many times, it also contained anecdotal historical accounts that gave a flavor for Alaska's inner waters and native heritage.

Our ship's daily newsletter listed what mileage we would be cruising that day, and the cruise director would often announce more exact mile markers for passengers who were following along in the guide.

If your cruise line offers a book of this type, it's worth getting. Our copy not only told of the inside passage but all the way up to Fairbanks and beyond, so it was very helpful on our land excursions later on in the trip as well.

We arrived in Ketchikan overnight, awakening to a bustling dock right outside our window.

They're proud of this fact, and have a "liquid sunshine "gauge prominently displayed near the dock to keep track. Fortunately for us, it stopped drizzling in mid-morning, and the rest of the day was dry.

We chose to take the shore excursions offered by our cruise line. We felt this would make the most of our time on land, and if there was a problem somewhere, the cruise line would do everything possible to get us back to the ship on time. You can also find tour companies by the docks and sign up, as well as taxis to take you around if you prefer to be on your own.

Our first adventure was an hour-long horse-drawn trolley tour of the town. At one point, as our tour guide was giving us an historical account of the town, we passed a baseball diamond, which notably lacked any grass. We asked him why, and also joked that they must call a lot of games on account of rain.

Our second adventure was a bus tour of the outer portions of town on our way to visit Totem Bight, which contained a large totem pole display. On the walk from the bus to the display, which took us through a beautiful rainforest, we passed a bear den - an old uprooted tree.

Our guide explained many of the totems' significance, and the stories they portrayed. There was also a clan house, built by the Alaskan natives to provide shelter during their fishing expeditions to the area. As large as it was, it would house several families at one time.

At the bight we were also treated to several eagles flying high overhead and out over the water. None of them came close enough to pose for a picture, so I didn't get any good shots. There was one that swooped about 30 feet above me just as I was changing batteries in my camera, but he (she?) disappeared into the top of a huge tree before I could complete the task and snap a shot.

If you want to be sure to see eagles, Ketchikan is the place. Ketchikan is the "eagle capital", having about 70% of all the bald eagles in the country. Late summer, when the salmon are running, is the best time to see these noble creatures in action.

As we returned to town on the bus, they were perched on the tops of almost every building along the road. Naturally, the buildings were on the side of the bus I wasn't, so you'll have to use your imagination.